Friday, February 13, 2015

Drink Like A Beer Judge

When people find out I’m a beer judge, they usually have a wide array of responses.  Anything ranging from “Lucky you! Free beer!” to “Aren’t all beers the same?” to “What’s that supposed to mean?”  Sometimes there are even people who are aware of beer judging and have negative opinions of competitions due to prior bad experience.  Well, some of that is certainly justified.  I’ve gotten quite a few awful score sheets in my days as well.  In my opinion, there are two primary reasons to enter competitions: receiving feedback and winning medals.  In both instances, however, I think a little look behind the curtain of what’s involved in judging might help both camps.

The first thing to consider is the environment your beer is in.  Make sure to clean and sanitize whatever your bottling system is thoroughly.  Nothing is worse than having a beer that tastes phenomenal coming out of your kegerator getting a 29 out of 50 picking up some sort of infection or off flavor going into the bottle.  Next comes transportation.  If you ship your beer, you have no control over what happens to it when it gets to the shipping company.  If you really want to see how a judge will receive your beer, take a bottle with you in your car to work for two or three days.  Then stick it in your fridge for a week or two.  That’s probably what the judge is going to experience.

If you’re going for medals, there’s no better way to improve your brewing than by learning to judge your beer like the judges will.  Unfortunately, the nature of the beast with competitions is style guidelines.  No matter how great of a beer you may make, if it doesn’t fit the style, you won’t win anything.  By that same token, judges can’t give you feedback without having an idea of what you were shooting for.  If you enter a Pale Ale brewed with Belgian Yeast, it’s not going to taste like an American Pale Ale and will come off as though it was infected or fermented too warm.

In the meantime, you can get the things you’ll need assuming you don’t have them on hand.  Get a copy of the style guidelines from the BJCP website (http://www.bjcp.org/stylecenter.php).  Also, while you’re there, download a copy of the beer score sheet (http://www.bjcp.org/docs/SCP_BeerScoreSheet.pdf).  Get your hands on some clear 9 ounce plastic cups.  These are the same cups they give you on an airplane.  Basically a plastic cocktail glass.  Most independent grocery stores will have them.  I don’t usually see them at big box stores except for Sam’s.  A small LED flashlight and a mechanical pencil will also come in handy.  Now, I would assume you already knew what style you were going for when you put together your recipe or found it.  In this article, I’ll be using a beer sent to me by HomeBrewTalk’s nukebrewer as an extra in the Make A Wish (Easy Version) thread.  It is an Imperial Flanders Red.  That technically isn’t a style in the 2008 guidelines, but we’ll consider it part of category 16e (Belgian Specialty) for this exercise.  It could also be considered a Specialty Beer in category 23, but since it’s a bigger version of a Flanders Red (a Belgian Sour), 16e will probably give it the best chance.

Always consider the BJCP guidelines when entering.  They are irrelevant to commercial brewers and people who don’t enter competitions, but they are the only things the judges can go on when they review your beer.  All scores are based upon the conformance to that style.  For this beer, we would also reference category 17b since it’s a bigger Flanders Red.  Basically, it should show most of the characteristics of a Flanders Red with a higher alcohol content.

When it’s time to taste the beer, you want to have a quiet space with as few distracting aromas as possible.  Also, most beer competitions are judged starting around 9 AM.  Your palate and senses will generally be more sensitive at this time.  So, if you want the full experience, pick a Saturday morning to eat a decent, but relatively bland, breakfast and get ready to taste your beer.  Set up your stuff in that quiet aroma-neutral space, and sit the beer out on the table.  Keep in mind that most competitions will bring out a flight to the judges all at once in a Styrofoam cooler which generally won’t have ice in it.  Your beer may be first in the flight and still relatively cold, or it may be last in a flight of 10 and have been sitting in the cooler for a couple hours.  For the sake of this exercise, leave it out for about 20 minutes.  The first thing you’re going to want to do is visually inspect the bottle.  It should be free of any markings or labels that could be considered identifying.  A quick shine of the flashlight through the bottle should reveal any sediment or floaters.  Judges will use this when marking the first section of the score sheet:



Now, we can finally pour the beer.  Pop the cap and pour about 2 or 3 ounces into the cup.  You want to do this relatively vigorously.  Since you’re not pouring much, you want the beer to have a chance to create foam and aroma:



The first thing a judge is going to do at this point is smell the beer.  You’re looking for any fleeting aromas that may show up.  You want to write down everything you smell.  Every characteristic of the malt, hops, yeast derived esters, and anything else.  Whatever you smell just write it down.  In the case of this beer, there were moderate dark fruit aromas like dark cherries and plums, medium low acetic acid aromas (think vinegar) with a touch of lactic acid, low spicy phenols (similar to clove), not much hop aroma to mention, and no diacetyl detected (the smell of movie popcorn butter to me, but others describe it as butterscotch).  A good general guideline in a competition is to be able to do all of this in under a minute.  We don’t want to even consider score at this point.

Next we move on to the appearance.  You want to look at the beer color, clarity, and head retention, head color, and texture.  This should be an even quicker section.  The beer I was sampling was a coppery amber in color with a very slight white head, good clarity, and a light ring of many fine bubbles ringing the edge which did persist.  A quick look at the style guidelines for Flanders Red show that it hits most of those marks although the head was a little lacking.  Appearance is only 3 points total, so we’ll knock a point off for that and call it 2/3 for appearance.

We’ve had the beer in the glass for a few minutes now, and it’s finally time to taste it.  You want to inhale through your nose as you take a small sip (maybe an ounce) and swish it around your palate.  Take note of everything you’re tasting.  Just like aroma, we’re looking for characteristics of the ingredients and fermentation characteristics, but now we’re also looking for balance and finish/aftertaste.  This beer had moderate high dark fruit (dark cherry and plums) with a medium low chocolate flavor that came through mid-taste.  Medium low spicy phenols with a low alcohol sweetness were also there.  Finally there was a moderate and drying sourness that finished similar to a red wine.  No hop flavor or diacetyl came through.

At this point would be where we would start considering score.  Think about the overall beer as well as how it comes off within the style.  Using the style guidelines and considering it a bigger version of a Flanders Red, this beer was in the high end of the “Very Good” range.  It was generally within style parameters, but could have used a little more carbonation and complexity.  With that in mind, we can score aroma (after noting any changes in aroma as it warms, i.e. the light chocolate aroma).  The high end of “Very Good” is about 75% of perfect, so we’ll call this one a 9/12 for aroma and a 15/20 for flavor.  Flavor should take you 3 or 4 minutes in a competition since it’s the biggest percentage of overall score.



Mouthfeel should be another relatively quick section.  You want to consider body, carbonation, warmth, creaminess, or any other palate sensations (harsh astringency or soapy slickness from diacetyl for example).  This beer was medium bodied with low carbonation.  It was tart and moderately acidic with a medium low warming sensation from the alcohol.  Despite the tartness, there was no astringency (suck on a tea bag for this mouth-puckering feeling).  There was no diacetyl slickness.  The dryness lingered only slightly.  When taking style into account, the carbonation was a little lower than expected, so we would only dock it a point and score it 4/5.

The final comment section is overall impression.  This is where the line is usually drawn between a good judge and a great judge.  All the rest of the sections should only address what you can sense (see, smell, taste, or feel).  Overall impression is where you address the drinkability and feedback.  This is where you tell the brewer how they can make the beer better fit the style.  The most important thing is to be constructive.  The brewer paid money to enter the competition, so give them some common courtesy.   In this case, it was a very good beer, but the carbonation seemed a bit on the low side.  There are a few ways to fix this, but since a judge has no way of knowing the brewer’s specific process, we have to offer up multiple possibilities.  If the beer was bottle conditioned, the carbonating sugar could be increased, or if the beer had attenuated so low that there was very little sugar left, krauesen from a similar beer or starter sized batch can be added to produce the same effect.  If kegged, the PSI on the CO2 should be raised about 10-20% higher and the beer agitated to allow it to dissolve in solution.  Another thing that would have helped it would be a little more complexity and character.  Since a Flanders Red would have some Munich or Vienna or possibly a specialty crystal malt like Special B, either substituting a portion of melanoidin malt (10-20%) for some of the Vienna or Munich malt or adding ½# of Special B per 5 gallons of beer would give it a little extra character to help it stand out.  I scored this one 7/10 overall based on the overall “Very Good” range I put it in.

The final step in a real judging competition is to tick the checkboxes for any descriptors.  Some of these are neutral or expected depending on style, and others are generally bad.  For this beer, the Alcoholic, Phenolic, and Sour/Acidic boxes were appropriate for style, so did not signify a bad thing.  This beer wound up being a 37/50 at the end of it.  Depending on what it was up against in the flight, it may have advanced to mini-Best of Show (where a big category will have the medals picked from the best of each of the flights) or even placed in a small category.  The interesting part of the mini-BOS is that if a beer advances, scores go out the window.  A subset of judges (usually the higher ranked judges that judged the flights) will take the top 4 or 6 beers and taste them side by side to determine which beer best represents the style guidelines.  Hopefully this information helps you out when deciding to enter beers in the future.  If you want to score well with a judge, you need to learn to drink like one.  ;)

Friday, December 19, 2014

Does glassware really make a difference?


So often when we go out to enjoy a few adult beverages, many bars and restaurants just pour them into the same thing: a shaker pint.  Named after its purpose, a shaker pint is what bartenders cap the shaker with to mix up a cocktail.  Most bars also use them to serve beer for one simple reason: they're easy to stack so they are cheaper from a space perspective.  Maybe if you're lucky, your bar has nonic pints.  Those are the ones with the bulge about 1/4 of the way down from the top.  But the question is, does it matter?  Recently, I had the opportunity to attend an event to find out.  To celebrate their recently installed 200BBL brewhouse, Abita Brewery invited some people in the homebrewing and beer blogging community to a first peek at the new setup and also to a glassware pairing conducted by Spiegelau.  In exchange for a nominal fee, attendees received a five piece tasting set and an Abita shaker pint (and the beer to compare).  First we toured the brewhouse, but that's not our focus here.  Afterwards, we all found a seat in the tap room for the real show for non-brewers.  The tasting was conducted by Chris Hillin, Regional Sales Manager for Riedel/Spiegelau, and Jaime Jurado, Director of Brewing Operations for Abita.  Now, on to the beer...

First up was Abita Amber:



This beer is not an American Amber.  It's probably closest to a German Vienna lager.  Only the color is amber.  For this one, we were asked to pour half in the shaker pint and half in the lager glass.  I was surprised by the difference.  Normally Amber is on my list of last resort beers like Sam Adams Boston Lager.  In other words, if my draft options are BudMillerCoors or Amber, that's the only time I'm getting an Amber.  The shaker pint was the reason why.  It was dull, uninteresting, and lifeless.  However, in the lager glass it actually showcased some of the complex maltiness of a Vienna.  The reasons are twofold.  Primarily, the shape of the glassware is designed around highlighting the strengths of certain beers.  The lager glass has a relative large bell tapered to collect and focus the complex maltiness (think caramel and toasted bread) of many European lagers.  Second, the type of glass they use allows them to make the glasses thinner without compromising structural integrity.  They then showed microscopic cross sections of most glassware and the type they use.  Ever wonder why eventually your glasses get cloudy after many cycles through the dishwasher?  Apparently there are tons of microscopic pits and valleys in most glasses.  Another apparent benefit to the type of glass that Spiegelau uses is that it did not display these same tiny 'flaws'.

Our next selection was S.O.S. (Save Our Shore):



This is an unfiltered Weizen Pils (yeah, that style doesn't exist anywhere).  It was brewed to raise funds for the Louisiana coastal protection efforts during the BP oil spill a few years ago.  For this one, we actually poured part into the lager glass and part into the wheat glass (which is similar in shape to a traditional pilsner glass).  Yet again I was surprised by how much difference the glasses made.  The lager glass was OK, but the wheat glass really made the balance of hops to wheat and malt pop.  The process used to pair the beers and glasses is somewhat unscientific.  They basically get their tasters (or a combination of theirs and a brewery's if they're partnering) to try a beer in several different prototypes and then revamp until they find one that really makes a certain style shine.

And then came Spiegelau's claim to fame, the IPA glass and Wrought Iron IPA:



Abita has attempted to make it into the IPA market quite a few times.  So far, the results have been mixed for me.  Now, there's their new Wrought Iron IPA.  I had it on draft in a shaker pint a few days before the event, and although the nose on it was pretty good (Mosaic hops had lots of berry notes), the flavor was harsh grapefruit and disappointing.  In the IPA glass, though, it was actually pretty good.  The citrus, pine, and berry (with a touch of muskiness) were far more balanced.  The taste was also much less harsh.  In the shaker, it was exactly how I remembered it.  Designed with Dogfish Head and Sierra Nevada, the IPA glass has a few things going on.  The large bell with a relatively small tapered top focuses the hop aromas and keeps them around.  The wavy bottom actually serves to enhance the experience by creating nucleation points to release more carbonation when you get towards the halfway point in the glass.  When you tilt it to sip, you create more foam and release more aromas when you put it back down.  I'm getting sold on the concept by this point.

Next up was the stemmed tulip and Abbey Ale:



This is Abita's take on a Belgian dubbel.  This is actually where they sold me on the glassware concept.  I've had this before and it was pretty decent, but in the stemmed tulip, it was downright sublime.  My wife even commented that we needed to pick some up next time we had a chance.  The sweet breadiness of the malt and the banana and light clove from the yeast were showcased by the shape of the glass.  This one is made for most big malt bombs.  Think Belgians, Scotch Ales, Imperial Stouts and Porters, etc.  More on this in a bit...

The final official pairing was the relatively new stout glass and Naughty Quaker:



Naughty Quaker is an oatmeal stout.  It's part of Abita's Select Series which means it's typically draft only and rarely makes it out of Louisiana.  This is unfortunate, because most of Abita's really great beers have fallen into this series while the rest of the world only gets Amber, Purple Haze, and the like.  The stout glass is similar in some ways to the IPA glass except squatter and without the wavy nucleation points.  This tends to focus the roasty character of dark malt the most.  At this point, we weren't comparing anything to the shaker pint, but I had a glass in one when we stopped for supper on the way home and the glass truly does make a difference.  I generally don't like shaker pints anyway, but now I'm downright spoiled against them.

This was the end of the official tasting, but I had a pop quiz of sorts prepared.  I went up to Chris and asked him what glass he thought might pair best with a wood-aged Scotch ale.  He said it was probably a tossup between the stemmed tulip and the stout glass.  I told him this was the opportune time to test it since I had brought along a mini-growler of mine.  This beer is a strong Scotch ale which Jaime termed a "way heavy" after tasting it.  I took my standard Scotch ale recipe and aged it on a combination of light and dark toasted oak chips soaked in Macallan 15.  The clear winner was the stemmed tulip.  It really allowed all aspects of the beer to shine.  The dark fruit (raisins, plums, figs, and black cherries) combined with the vanilla and a hint of leather and tobacco from the wood were pretty amazing, if I do say so myself.  The stout glass really only showcased the wood: all barrel and no fruit.  In conclusion, glassware does make a difference in my opinion.  I sort of wish they made glassware suited for beer judging now.  Most competitions are based on the aromas and flavors you get from "airline cups", those ubiquitous cups that you seem to only see at homebrew competitions and on an airplane.  Scaled down tasters more suited to the styles would be a worthy investment for me.

Saturday, August 30, 2014

#BBC14 Pre-Conference Pub Crawl: Independent Style…


We already had travel arrangements to fly into San Diego when the Pre-Conference Excursion was announced.  Since another couple from NOLA, friends of ours, were in the same boat we decided to split cab fare and create our own pre-conference excursion in beautiful, temperate San Diego.

First stop?  For lunch and beverages of course at Blind Lady Ale House (BLAH).  The décor is welcoming.  The color scheme is a palette of browns but the place is well lit so it’s welcoming.  There are skateboard decks lining the walls (they could have used a Gnarly Barley deck) and nostalgic beer lighting (a turning Miller Genuine Draft Light was near our table).  The music was loud enough to hear but low enough to talk over.  These guys have a lot of things going right in this establishment.  Most tables seat six, so this is really a place to come and hang with a group of friends and share some food, drink, and fun.  Favorite beer?  The Golden Ticket, a Belgian golden strong infused with vanilla beans and oak with Dark Horse Coffee.  Think Coffee Stout has a stepchild with something gold and it ends up being blonde but having a delightful coffee kick.  BLAH also had St. Louis Geueze and Monk’s Café Flemish Sour Ale on tap, so I traded off Coffee and sour for the time we were there.  The Cheese and Charcuterie Plates were awesome!  I would definitely hang out here again if in San Diego again.  Once we were done here, it was time for an afternoon nap to cut the time zone confusion.

Then we were back out and about at Toranado.  The selection included several local beverages.  I had a New Belgium Love-Felix and a taste of Toby’s Chip Shot Coffee Porter.  The establishment was on the small side and not well lit.  Toby had the Smoked Mac and Cheese.  It was very cheesy and seasoned with smoked paprika.  It was good, but the serving size was huge.  I had a BLTA (the A is for avocado) with a cucumber salad.  It was all right, but the bacon was on the soggy side (I am a stickler for crispy bacon) and the cucumber salad was heavy on a white dressing.  We did have window side seating that allowed us to look out at what was going on outside on the street.  This is not a stop I would be inclined to repeat.

Our final stop was Waypoint Public.  I loved the campy décor, the bear logo, and the bar rail around the perimeter which allowed for rail seating facing the street to see what was going on outside.  I enjoyed a Berry Nice and Bacon & Eggs by Pizza Port and a Three Sheets by Ballast Point.  The beer was good, the lighting was good, the setting was good.  I loved that they accommodated couples with young children by providing a toddler play ground and a big screen that was playing Harry and the Henderson’s while we were there.  I wish I had waited on eating, because I think the menu would have delivered.  I would definitely make a return visit if I chance to visit San Diego again.  And then, it was time to turn in for the night to gear up for the conference day that was to come…

Sunday, August 24, 2014

2014 Beer Bloggers Conference - San Diego

This conference was perfect for the way I like to schedule recreational travel: a four-day weekend with a pre-conference day for independent wandering and a full conference schedule.  We selected a direct flight from New Orleans International Airport to San Diego International Airport on Southwest Airlines.  We took a taxi from the airport to the conference hotel, the San Diego Mission Valley Marriott.  For our independent ground travel, we used UBER for the first time.  The trip went well, what follows are my thoughts on our lodging and transportation services for the duration of the trip.

Things I appreciate about Southwest:
1.  Select your own seat.  I prefer the exit row on the wing because you get extra legroom.  On the A/B/C side of the plane, you get more elbow room as well.  The extra space helps with the cooped up feeling on the long flight.
2.  Direct flights.  It's worth the drive to New Orleans.
3.  The planes are roomy.  No worries about hitting your head on the ceiling while entering the plane or walking down the aisle.
4.  The seat belts don't make me feel like I need to lose 25lbs to fly.
5.  The flight attendants are friendly and have a sense of humor about the long flights.
While my butt was hurting for half the flight, that is more about my butt than it is about Southwest.

Marriott properties are my favorite for travel.  There is a consistent quality at a good value that I've come to appreciate, and the San Diego Mission Valley Marriott was no exception to that expectation.
1.  The room rate was a great value for the site. 
2.  The staff were courteous and responsive to my requests.  I was able to get a feather free room with a king size bed for a small wait on check in.
3.  Strawberry enhanced water was available in the lobby 24/7.  This is quite refreshing and beats bottled water.
4.  The room was spacious.  There was a sitting area with a love seat and coffee table and a work space with a charging station.
5.  The dining area provided a variety of breakfast options.  We ate there every morning.  The fruit was fresh and the bacon was crispy.  The coffee was Starbucks, so it was decent.
6.  The conference center was connected to the hotel by covered walkways.  The weather was beautiful, but this was a great feature for a conference in the event of rain.
7.  There were beautiful outdoor seating areas.  Landscaping ranged from palm trees to rose bushes.  The sofas and chairs were oversized and comfortable.  There was an outdoor breakfast area and a lounging area with a fire pit.  The pool was inviting, and they played family movies on a big screen at the pool at night.

UBER:
1.  The vehicles were clean.
2.  The drivers were well dressed and pleasant.  It was like being picked up by a friend for a ride because you were in town.
3.  We never waited more than 10 minutes for a ride (most waits were around 5 minutes).
4.  You don't need cash and your credit card information is shared with only one point of contact.
5.  The UBER app lets you confirm if your driver is on course to the destination you selected.  This is a great feature when you are traveling somewhere that is unfamiliar.

On a return trip to San Diego, I would definitely use all of these transportation and lodging services again.

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Mini-review: Rough Draft Weekday IPA

Aroma is grapefruit with a little cattiness.
Appearance is deep gold with a white head.
Flavor is grapefruit hops with a very low malt backbone.
Mouthfeel is light-bodied and crisp.
Overall Impression is a nice session IPA with a nice fruitiness.

Lost Abbey - Deliverance

Aromas of brandy and chocolate.  Reminiscent of carmalizerd fig.  Good mouthfeel, it's not thick, but there is substance to it.  Coats the palate and finishes with a cholate taste as the palate dries.  It can deliveru from a rough day.  Curl up with a blanket and a good book and don't plan to go anywhere for the night.

Mini-review: Lost Abbey Deliverance

Aroma is boozy with dark fruit (raisins and plums) with a hint of vanilla.
Appearance is dark brown with nice legs.
Flavor is warm alcohol and raisins and plums.
Mouthfeel is thick and viscous.
Overall Impression is decadence.